Chinese food therapy (simplified Chinese: 食疗; traditional Chinese: 食療; pinyin:
Food therapy has long been a common approach to health among Chinese people both in China and overseas, and was popularized for western readers in the 1990s with the publication of books like The Tao of Healthy Eating (Flaws 1995a) and The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen (Young 1999).
Origins
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A number of ancient Chinese cookbooks and treatises on food (now lost) display an early Chinese interest in food, but no known focus on its medical value. The literature on "nourishing life" (å…»ç"Ÿ; 養ç"Ÿ; yangsheng) integrated advice on food within broader advice on how to attain immortality. Such books, however, are only precursors of "dietary therapy", because they did not systematically describe the effect of individual food items. In the volume on "Fermentations and Food Science" of Joseph Needham's Science and Civilization in China, H. T. Huang considers the Recipes for Fifty-Two Ailments (ca. 200 BCE) and the Yellow Emperor's Inner Canon as precursors of the "dietary therapy" tradition, the former because it recommends food products as remedies for various illnesses, the latter because it discusses the impact of food on health. The materia medica literature, exemplified by the Shennong Bencao Jing (1st century CE), also discussed food products, but without specializing on them.
The earliest extant Chinese dietary text is a chapter of Sun Simiao's Prescriptions Worth a Thousand Gold (åƒé‡'æ–¹; QiÄnjÄ«n fÄng), which was completed in the 650s during the Tang dynasty. Sun's work contains the earliest known use of the term "food (or dietary) therapy" (shiliao). Sun stated that he wanted to present current knowledge about food so that people would first turn to food rather than drugs when suffering from an ailment. His chapter contains 154 entries divided into four sections â€" on fruits, vegetables, cereals, and meat â€" in which Sun explains the properties of individual foodstuffs with concepts borrowed from the Yellow Emperor's Inner Canon: qi, the viscera, and vital essence (ç²¾; jÄ«ng), as well as correspondences between the Five Phases, the "five flavors" (sour, bitter, sweet, pungent, and salty), and the five grains. He also set a large number of "dietary interdictions" (食ç¦; shÃjìn), some based on calendrical notions (no water chestnuts in the 7th month), others on purported interactions between foods (no clear wine with horse meat) or between different flavors.
Sun Simiao's disciple Meng Shen (åŸè¯œ; åŸè©µ; 621â€"713) compiled the first work entirely devoted to the therapeutic value of food: the Materia Dietetica (食疗本è‰; 食療本è‰; ShÃliáo bÄ›ncÇŽo; "food therapy materia medica"). This work has not survived, but it was quoted in later texts â€" like the 10th-century Japanese text IshinpÅ â€" and a fragment of it has been found among the Dunhuang manuscripts. Surviving excerpts show that Meng gave less importance to dietary prohibitions than Sun, and that he provided information on how to prepare foodstuffs rather than just describe their properties. The works of Sun Simiao and Meng Shen established the genre of materia dietetica and shaped its development in the following centuries.
Later history
An abundant literature developed in China around the medicinal uses of food. A mid-ninth-century work called Candid Views of a Nutritionist-Physician (Shi Yi Xin Jian 食医心鉴ï¼é£Ÿé†«å¿ƒé''; now lost) discussed how food could treat various disorders, whereas several works from the Song dynasty (960â€"1279) explained how to feed the elderly to extend their life.
In the early 14th century, Hu Sihui, who served as Grand Dietician (Yinshan Taiyi 饮膳太医ï¼é£²è†³å¤ªé†«) at the court of the Mongol Yuan dynasty (1260â€"1368), compiled a treatise called the Proper and Essential Things for the Emperor's Food and Drink (Yinshan Zhengyao 饮膳æ£è¦), which is still recognized in China as a classic of both materia medica and materia dietetica. Influenced by the culinary and medical traditions of the Turko-Islamic world and integrating Mongol food stuffs like mutton into its recipes, Hu's treatise interpreted the effects of food according to the scheme of correspondences between the Five Phases that had recently been systematized by northern Chinese medical writers of the Jin (1115â€"1234) and Yuan eras. Before that period, food materials had not yet been comprehensively assigned to one of five flavors systematically correlated with specific internal organs and therapeutic effects.
Chinese understandings of the therapeutic effects of food were influential in East Asia. Cited in Japanese works as early as the 10th century, Chinese dietary works shaped Korean literature on food well into the Joseon period (1392â€"1897). In the late 17th and early 18th centuries, the imperial court of the Qing dynasty (1644â€"1912) ordered several works on Chinese food therapy translated into Manchu.
Main tenets
Although the precepts of Chinese food therapy are neither systematic nor identical in all times and places, some basic concepts can be isolated. One central tenet is that "medicine and food share a common origin", and that food materials can therefore be used to prevent or treat medical disorders. Like medicinal drugs, food items are classified as "heating" (çƒ; 熱; rè) or "cooling" (凉; 涼; liáng). In popular understanding, "heating" or "hot" food is typically "high-calorie, subjected to high heat in cooking, spicy or bitter, or 'hot' in color (red, orange)", and includes red meat, innards, baked and deep-fried goods, and alcohol. They are to be avoided in the summer and can be used to treat "cold" illnesses like excessive pallor, watery feces, fatigue, chills, and low body temperature caused by a number of possible causes, including anemia. Green vegetables are the most typical "cooling" or "cold" food, which is "low-calorie, watery, soothing or sour in taste, or 'cool' in color (whitish, green)". They are recommended for "hot" conditions: rashes, dryness or redness of skin, heartburns, and other "symptoms similar to those of a burn", but also sore throat, swollen gums, and constipation.
In more systematic understandings, each medicine or food item has one of five flavors: sour, sweet, bitter, pungent (or "acrid"), and salty. Besides describing the taste of food, each of these "flavors" purportedly has specific effects on particular viscera. The sour flavor, for instance, has "constriction and emollient effects" and "can emolliate the liver and control diarrhea and perspiration", whereas "bitter" food can "purge the heart 'fire', reduce excessive fluids, induce diarrhea, and reinforce the heart 'Yin'".
Scientific assessments
There are few studies in English on the scientific validity of these beliefs and practices. A few studies conducted in China suggest that a diet designed according to the precepts of Chinese food therapy may help control blood pressure, but these studies are based on different diagnostic categories than those of western medicine ("Yin deficiency" instead of hypertension), and on chiefly qualitative and conceptual evidence rather than on modern randomized controlled trials. Consequently, the claims of efficacy are weaker in scientific evidence than those based on mixed nutritious foods and demonstrated to have health effects by extensive clinical research, such as the DASH diet or Mediterranean diet.
See also
- Bencao Gangmu, a materia medica compiled by Li Shizhen during the Ming dynasty.
- Ch'ang Ming, a series of dietary and lifestyle recommendations adapted to Western eating habits
References
Citations
Works cited
- Anderson, Eugene N. (2013), "Folk Nutritional Therapy in Modern China", in TJ Hinrichs; Linda L. Barnes, Chinese Medicine and Healing: An Illustrated History, Cambridge, Mass.: The Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, pp. 259â€"260, ISBN 978-0-674-04737-2 .
- Barnes, Linda L. (2013), "A World of Chinese Medicine and Healing: Part Two", in TJ Hinrichs; Linda L. Barnes, Chinese Medicine and Healing: An Illustrated History, Cambridge, Mass.: The Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, pp. 334â€"378, ISBN 978-0-674-04737-2 .
- Buell, Paul D.; Anderson, Eugene N. (2010), A Soup for the Qan, Second Revised and Expanded Edition, Leiden and Boston: Brill, ISBNÂ 978-90-04-18020-8Â
- Engelhardt, Ute (2001), "Dietetics in Tang China and the first extant works of materia dietetica", in Elisabeth Hsü, Innovation in Chinese Medicine, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, pp. 173â€"191, ISBN 0-521-80068-4 .
- Flaws, Bob (1995a), The Tao of Healthy Eating: Dietary Wisdom According to the Traditional Chinese Medicine, Boulder, Colorado: Blue Poppy Press .
- Flaws, Bob (1995b), The Book of Jook: Chinese Medicinal Porridgesâ€"A Healthy Alternative to the Typical Western Breakfast, Boulder, Colorado: Blue Poppy Press .
- Hanson, Marta (2003), "The Golden Mirror in the Imperial Court of the Qianlong Emperor, 1739-1742", Early Science and Medicine, 8 (2): 108â€"47  â€" via JSTOR (subscription required)
- Huang, H. T. (2000), Science and Civilization in China, Volume VI, Part 5, Fermentations and Food Science, Cambridge, Eng.: Cambridge University PressÂ
- Lo, Vivienne (2005), "Pleasure, Prohibition, and Pain: Food and Medicine in Traditional China", in Roel Sterckx, Of Tripod and Palate: Food, Politics, and Religion in Traditional China, New York: Palgrave Macmillan, pp. 163â€"85, doi:10.1057/9781403979278_9, ISBN 978-1-349-52746-5Â
- Ro, Sang-ho (2016), "Cookbooks and Female Writers in Late ChosÅn Korea", Seoul Journal of Korean Studies, 29 (1): 133â€"57  â€" via MUSE (subscription required)
- Simonds, Nina (1999), A Spoonful of Ginger: Irresistible Health-Giving Recipes from Asian Kitchens, New York: Knopf .
- Tsang, Ka Bo (1996), "Chinese Pig Tales", Archaeology, 49 (2): 52â€"57  â€" via JSTOR (subscription required)
- Young, Grace (1999), The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen: Classic Family Recipes for Celebration and Healing, New York: Simon and Schuster .
- Zhao, Zhuo; Ellis, George (1998), The Healing Cuisine of China: 300 Recipes for Vibrant Health and Longevity, Rochester, Vermont: Healing Arts Press .
Further reading
- Cai, Jinfeng (1988), Eating Your Way to Health: Dietotherapy in Traditional Chinese Medicine, Peking: Foreign Language Press .
- Farquhar, Judith (1994), "Eating Chinese Medicine", Cultural Anthropology, 9 (4): 471â€"97, doi:10.1525/can.1994.9.4.02a00020  â€" via JSTOR (subscription required)
- Flaws, Bob; Wolfe, Honora L. (1983), Prince Wen Hui's Cook: Chinese Dietary Therapy, Brookline, MA: Paradigm Publications .
- Kastner, Joerg (2008), Chinese Nutrition Therapy: Dietetics in Traditional Chinese Medicine, Thieme Medical Publishers, ISBNÂ 3131309628Â .
- Liu, Jilin; et al., eds. (1995), Chinese Dietary Therapy, Edinburgh: Churchill Livingstone .
- Lu, Henry C. (1986), Chinese System of Food Cures, Prevention and Remedies, New York: Sterling Publ. Co., ISBNÂ 9789679782530Â .
- Lu, Gwei-djen; Needham, Joseph (1951), "A Contribution to the History of Chinese Dietetics", Isis, 42 (1): 13â€"20, doi:10.1086/349229  â€" via JSTOR (subscription required)
- Topley, Marjorie (1970), "Chinese Traditional Ideas and the Treatment of Disease: Two Examples from Hong Kong", Man, New Series, 5 (3): 421â€"37, doi:10.2307/2798950  â€" via JSTOR (subscription required)
